Technological Advances Come to Fencing

Technological Advances Come to Fencing

How Innovative Design Can Improve Operator Safety

Fencing contractors have come to rely on high-speed mechanical earth drills for quick hole digging — and for good reason. These powerful machines greatly increase productivity over manual methods, improving profits and ROI. However, some efficiency is lost on increased labor costs and safety concerns directly resulting from the brute force these machines employ. Some companies — like Little Beaver — have made improvements to the design to allow a single operator to drill safely, saving time, labor costs and reducing the possibility of injury to the operator and damage to the machine.

Torque Transfer

Mechanical earth drill torque tube

By transferring dangerous kickback to the engine carriage as opposed to the handles, one person can safely operate a Little Beaver drill.

One-man drilling leaves the torque generated from a mechanical drill operating at 360 rpm in the hands of one person, a dangerous and potentially costly situation that can leave workers injured, jobs unfinished and insurance claims to be filed. It’s why Little Beaver builds its mechanical drills standard with steel torque tubes to prevent such situations from spinning out of control.

The steel torque tube transfers auger torque and kickback to a separate engine carriage instead of the drill’s handles. Little Beaver makes this possible by mounting the engine on a separate carriage and then connecting the engine to the drill via the torque tube. This makes one-man drilling a safe and efficient reality instead of a potential hazard.

But what happens when the kickback proves too much for the drill?

Centrifugal Clutch

Mechanical earth drill centrifugal clutch

A drill equipped with a centrifugal clutch will automatically slip if it becomes overloaded or strikes an object that cannot be readily drilled through.

Fence installers know the frustration of hitting tough objects, like roots or rocks, that can abruptly halt drilling at the expense of the operator or the drill itself. Quick changes in torque when drilling can destroy a transmission as easily as it can a shoulder. A centrifugal clutch helps to alleviate these hazards and headaches.

As the torque tube mitigates operator risk by reverting the torque back to the engine carriage, the drill’s transmission now takes on the risk of overloading from all the torque and drilling pressure or damage from encountering a buried object. This is where the centrifugal clutch kicks in. A drill equipped with a centrifugal clutch will automatically slip if it becomes overloaded or strikes an object that cannot be readily drilled through. Pairing this feature with a heavy-duty transmission limits the chances for auger and transmission damage or an untimely breakdown.

A centrifugal clutch, along with the steel torque tube, brings repair cost mitigation and safety maximization full circle. The increased safety of the operator combined with one-man operation and the decreased likelihood of a breakdown equals a smaller and more efficient crew that can take on more jobs.

Intuitive Design

Intuitive design leads to fluid operation. A drill operator shouldn’t need to waste time or focus searching for a switch or changing a cumbersome attachment. Time saving features like snap-on augers and handle-mounted on/off switches on Little Beaver drills help to improve operation, increasing efficiency and potentially saving the operator and machine from unnecessary harm.

There is no formula for increasing the number of jobs completed while decreasing labor input. Such a conundrum takes technological advances to overcome, and Little Beaver has done just that. Fencing crews can now complete jobs with less labor, freeing up time and budget to tackle more work safely.

Repair or Replace?

Repair or Replace?

Factors to Consider When Addressing Wear Issues

Nothing ruins productivity like a broken piece of equipment. While that statement may seem fairly obvious, the actions to address problems are not always clear cut. Depending on the severity of the issue, you may be able to get away with a quick fix or repair to extend the life of the machine. But for larger issues, a full replacement might make more sense.

This logic holds true with earth drills just as much as any other piece of equipment in your fleet. There are many working parts to a drill, and while issues aren’t a common occurrence, they certainly can happen. Unfortunately, there is not a guide or rule book to tell you exactly when to repair and when to replace your earth drill. But with a bit of guidance and the help of an expert manufacturer, your decision may be a little easier.

Here are some factors to consider when repairing or replacing your earth drill:

What seems to be the issue?

The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation

The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation

Some of the most common earth drill issues include an auger that quits turning or turns when it’s not supposed to. If your auger spins while it’s out of the ground but quits spinning as soon as you start to drill the hole, it’s likely a broken flex shaft. The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation, but sometimes even routine maintenance can’t prevent breakage. A broken flex shaft can’t be repaired, and usually costs about $600 for the part and up to $100 for installation. In some cases, just replacing the inner core will fix the problem for around $200.

Gearbox issues are a different story. An issue with the gears or the gearbox prevents the drill from spinning altogether.  While low motor oil can cause the motor to lock up and cease functioning, there’s also the possibility of a larger issue, such as the gears being stripped. Gearboxes can be repaired, but can cost nearly as much as a full replacement – a comparison of about $725 to repair or $850 plus installation costs to replace.

f the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch.

If the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch.

If the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch. The auger shouldn’t spin until you depress the throttle and engage the clutch. If the clutch is overheated during operation, the heat-treated springs will no longer keep the shoes from engaging, causing the auger to stay engaged at all times. Similar to the gearbox, the repair cost nears the full replacement cost – a comparison of about $140 and $160 plus installation costs for a new clutch.

If the auger vibrates excessively or “walks” during use, it is likely due to misalignment or wear of the points and blades. Blades should be replaced when worn flush of the auger flighting. If the blades wear into the auger flighting, the auger will need to be repaired or replaced. Points should be replaced when the split or fork in the tip is less than ¼” from the bottom of the split.

What would a replacement part cost?

The cost of parts varies among manufacturers. A general statement of advice is that if the replacement parts cost more than 50% of a new drill, it might be best to invest in a new unit. Keep in mind though, don’t just look at the sticker price. You should also include the labor and cost of lost production, as well as the age of the equipment.

Common replacement parts like the flex shaft and the gearbox can add up to a significant dollar amount. In fact, if both need to be repaired at the same time, it can cost almost 50% of a new drill. While it’s not common for these two parts to break at the same time, it can happen if an operator hits an obstacle while digging at a fast speed.

If two or more parts need to be replaced at the same time, you may be better off replacing the entire drill. However, making the repairs and rebuilds yourself can be a more financially feasible option for those with the experience and tools to do so.

Can you fix it yourself?

Hiring someone to fix your equipment is often a logical choice, as it alleviates the effort required on your part. However, when you take this route, it’s important to factor in repair costs and time that is outside of your control.

The alternative – fixing it yourself – doesn’t have to seem like a daunting undertaking. Many manufacturers have resources to walk you through the process. Little Beaver offers service videos that address common repairs and maintenance questions. It might seem tempting to pay someone to fix your drill, but educating yourself on the components and repair process can save you time and money in the long run. If someone on your staff is mechanically inclined, they should be able to tackle the repairs.

In what application do you use the drill?

Little Beaver Mechanical earth augerIf you’ve got backup drills in your fleet, waiting for a repair might not be an issue. But for contractors who rely on the unit on a daily or even weekly basis, being without it could result in lost revenue. In the summer, especially, many local lawn and garden repair shops are backed up for 6-12 weeks, which is not a feasible wait time for many people. Depending on how long you’ve owned the machine and what industry you’re in, the decision to repair or replace might make more sense.

Rental

In the rental industry, only drills that operate bring in revenue. So if repairing a drill would take time, replacing it might be a better option. If time is the greatest concern, consider purchasing a second unit as a back-up and additional revenue source until the original drill is fixed.

In the rental industry, appearance of equipment is a large deciding factor for customers. Replacing a worn-out drill with a shiny new one might make more sense for the fleet. If turning inventory is on an annual or 18-month requirement, the chances are low that something would go wrong and require a full replacement before that time. In other instances, a rental center might repair a drill for 20 years. The criteria is different for each business, so make sure the cost and the results make sense for your store.

Fencing

In the fencing industry, it’s important to have a large enough fleet to change out drills if one needs repairs. Fencing contractors likely have more than one drill in their lineup, so taking one out of commission to get it repaired shouldn’t affect productivity. For many contractors, incremental costs broken up monthly are a more feasible option than a single, larger payment. But, it’s important to consider the cost of each of those repairs. Consider the overall age of the drill and how many key components could be showing that age.

What is the age and condition of the drill?

If a drill is maintained well and taken care of, it should last many years. There’s no rule that says “after 10 years or 10,000 hours of use, the motor will go out,” so it’s important to keep an eye on the machine. If a drill is rented out and used for 20 hours a week, it would likely require less maintenance than a fencing contractor who uses the drill 40 hours a week.

When considering repairing or replacing your drill, you’ll want to consider the overall health of the engine. If the engine is older and experiencing issues, replacement might be more logical however, if the engine is a rebuilt system and virtually like new, repair makes more sense.

Making a decision

If you suspect something is wrong with your drill, address it right away. If issues aren’t fixed in a timely manner, they can have a domino effect and create more damage.  Taking care of one component right away can save time and hassle and prevent other issues.

Also, it’s important to remember that if you decide to purchase a brand-new drill, keep your old one on hand for replacement parts. Over time, it might be a good idea to fix up the old drill to use as a backup, too.

It’s hard to provide a cut-and-dry guide to repairing or replacing your equipment. The manufacturer can likely provide advice on your particular situation, so give them a call if you need help with the decision. Addressing problems and repairing or replacing your earth drill will help bring your operation back to maximum productivity.

The Dangers of Digging and How to Avoid Them

The Dangers of Digging and How to Avoid Them

Keeping Safety in Mind Before Starting the Job

Whether you’re using a hand shovel or an excavator, an earth drill or a trencher, a hole is a hole and there are several safety precautions that come along with a digging project. Sharp tools present the opportunity for dangerous situations, let alone combined with the power of a mechanical or hydraulic rig. Choosing a safe machine, calling before you dig and operating the machine according to manufacturer recommendations are all things to consider before starting. Keeping safety in mind before starting any job is crucial to avoiding injuries, some of which can be serious.

Select a Safe Drill

High speed earth drillChoosing a drill with safety-enhancing features can make or break a project. No matter what kind of drill you’re looking for – mechanical or hydraulic, a larger rig or smaller piece of equipment – there are certain features to look for to ensure the safest operation.

First, make sure the drill has a torque bar. This addition protects operators from the harmful effects of a drill’s torque by transferring kickback from the auger to the power source. By distributing force to the engine carriage as opposed to the handles, one person can safely and comfortably operate these drills. In addition to protecting the operator from harm, torque tubes reduce operator effort and fatigue.

Torque tubes are the only way to ensure safe operation of a one-man drill. The torque tube eliminates the kickback common with competitive earth augers, making one-man drilling safe, fast and productive. Many two-man drills exist, but if they’re not operated correctly, they present a handful of potential issues. If one operator slips or lets go, the other operator risks being thrown and injured. A one-man earth drill is designed to be a safe and efficient piece of equipment.

Additionally, mechanical drills are often equipped with a centrifugal clutch. If the auger encounters an object beneath the surface or if it’s overloaded, the clutch automatically slips to protect the operator from serious injury.

Call Before You Start

Call 811 Before You DigCalling before you dig can be the difference between smooth sailing and a potential disaster. There are millions of miles of buried utilities below the surface, including gas lines, underground sprinklers, sewer pipes and more. Buried gas or power lines are the most dangerous, with the potential for electrocution, fire, severe burns or even fatalities. Always call the national diggers hotline at 811 at least 48 hours prior to digging to have underground utilities marked. When the inspector arrives, pay attention to the details since state laws differ when it comes to how long your permits are valid and what the paint or flags indicate. There may be multiple utility lines to be aware of.

Besides underground utilities, you should have a general idea of what lies below. Fill material, wood, rocks and more can be hiding underground. Take a good survey of your site beforehand. Not only does this provide another level of safety, but it helps you make a decision on which kind of drill bit to select.

Operate Safely

After you’ve equipped yourself with the safest drill and underground utilities have been marked, it’s time to start your project. If you’ve chosen a one-man drill, it’s important to operate the drill alone, as the handles are designed for a solo operation. Bystanders should be at least 10 feet away, and everyone should be wearing hard hats and safety goggles.

Avoid loose-fitting clothing, including gloves. If work gloves are too loose, they can hinder your ability to appropriately operate the drill. Wear work boots or quality athletic shoes, avoiding hanging shoelaces that could get caught in the auger.

Once the auger is running, position it perpendicular to the ground for the best possible control and optimal results. Touch the auger to the ground before you start rotating. For the best control, adjust the downward pressure based on the soil conditions. If the soil is soft, ease up slightly. If the ground is harder, apply a little more pressure, but not so much that rotation slows or stops.

Once you’ve reached the desired depth, there’s a proper procedure for safely removing the auger from the ground. Release the throttle control and allow the auger to come to a complete stop. Once the auger has stopped turning, it can safely be removed from the hole. Hydraulic rigs feature a forward/reverse lever to make it easier to lift the dirt out. This allows the operator to ease the drill out of the ground as opposed to tugging heavily on the equipment, greatly minimizing the physical effort required to get the job done.

By following a few easy steps, you can ensure your drilling operation is safe, efficient and injury-free.

Mechanical Drill Maintenance: End-of-Year Care

Mechanical Drill Maintenance: End-of-Year Care

Mechanical Drill Maintenance

Preparing Your Drill for Off-Season Storage

As the end of the busy season wraps up, it’s time to take a closer look at your mechanical earth drill. When it comes to a smooth drilling operation, it’s a matter of a well-operating machine. Yes, choosing a top-performing, reputable drill manufacturer plays a huge role in the success of your drill, but performing routine and end-of-season maintenance is important to prolong the life of your equipment, and ensuring it performs when you really need it.

Routine drill maintenance includes examining, cleaning and lubricating key drill components roughly every 30 days or 40 hours of operation. But what happens at the end of busy season, when your drill makes its way to storage for a few months? Whether owner or a rental center, there are a few steps you can take to ensure a simple transition from storage to usage in the spring.

Inspect the drill

After every use of your earth drill, take a look at all of the components to ensure everything is in working order. End-of-season maintenance includes taking that inspection one step further. Make sure the blades are past the flighting. When the blades start to wear flush with the auger, it’s time to flip the blades or replace them. If the blades wear to the auger flighting and wear the actual flighting, operators will either need to repair the auger flighting or replace the entire auger.

Take a few more steps to complete the detailed inspection. Ensure all bolts are tight, and make sure all carbide blades (used for hard clay, frozen ground, or hard pan soils) are sharp. If the carbide blades feel worn and rounded, sharpen them with a bench grinder. Using a silicone carbide bench grinding wheel, hold the blade at a 5- to 7-degree relief angle to sharpen it.

The push button connector should be in good shape, with no visible rust. Check the throttle lever for damage or wear. Inspect the throttle cable, too. When you pull the lever, the cable should move freely on the other end. If it sticks, replace it. Some users might be able to remove the cable, clean it and reattach, but if the cable is frayed at all it will be difficult to get back in. Replacing is often the best option.

Inspecting your drill’s flex shaft should be done two or three times a year, but is especially important during end of year maintenance. There shouldn’t be any cracks or wires on the outer housing. If it’s in good shape, simply remove the core, clean it, re-lube it and slide it back in. If the flex shaft shows signs of cracks or wires, it should be replaced.

If any parts are in need of replacement, contact Little Beaver. Addressing replacement parts prior to storage is a better alternative to waiting until spring. Store your drill with peace of mind knowing it’ll be ready to operate in the spring, rather than dealing with potential delays waiting for parts.

Replace fluids and filters

Transmission fluid should be replaced regularly. If your fluid has a lot of metal shavings in it, that can be an indication of excessive gear wear or missing teeth. If the fluid is changed regularly, you won’t experience gear wear. If you hold the output shaft and wiggle it, you shouldn’t feel a lot of movement.

Motor oil and filters should be cleaned and changed. Clean filters with an air hose, or if they’re foam filters they can be shaken out.

Clean and prep for storage

Considering the job, it’s natural that earth drills get dirty. Dirt and clay adhere to the blades of the auger, which can diminish the efficiency and performance of the equipment. Not only should your machine be wiped down after every use, it should also undergo a deep cleaning during end of year maintenance.

Remove all debris from the earth blades using warm, soapy water. Avoid using a power washer, as the pressure can damage the equipment.

To prep for storage, disassemble the drill and remove the torque tube and auger. Drain the fuel or add fuel neutralizer before storage.

Always store the drills upright in a dry place because the steel components will eventually rust if left outside or in places with a lot of moisture, such as propped up outside against a building.

Keep in mind the importance of end-of-year maintenance and the role it plays in overall lifespan of the drill. Cleaning and storing the machine properly contributes to the continued success of your drilling operation.

If you have a maintenance issue or question, make sure to reference Little Beaver’s online parts and operators’ manualonline service videos or contact us for in-house technical consultation.

Increasing Versatility with Little Beaver Anchor Adapters

Increasing Versatility with Little Beaver Anchor Adapters

Hydraulic earth drill utility anchoring adaptor

Increase ROI with Your Hydraulic Drill

These days, everyone has a side gig — a profitable endeavor outside their normal operation that utilizes the skills and equipment they already have to increase productivity and income. In competitive industries like fencing and landscaping, this kind of versatility is the key to a successful business. Being able to do more with equipment you trust means more opportunities, increased productivity and faster ROI.

Across the country, contractors know Little Beaver products offer optimum power and portability in a single-operator package that won’t break the bank.  Whether it’s post hole digging, soil sampling, landscape or industrial fencing applications, they trust our Hydraulic Earth Drills to get the job done.

To help tackle even more projects and allow contractors to get the most out of their machines, we developed a number of attachment kits for our hydraulic earth drills. These accessories make it easy to switch gears from digging holes for fencing and landscape projects to anchoring for light utility and mobile home applications, as well as horizontal boring — increasing the operator’s versatility and potential.

Putting Utility Back in Utility Anchoring

One industry Little Beaver helps contractors explore is utility anchoring. With minimal investment — just a High-Torque Anchor Handle and Utility Anchor Adapter — your Hydraulic Earth Drill becomes a safe, efficient tool for utility applications.

Utility anchor adapter

The utility anchor adapter, used with Little Beaver’s anchor handle, hydraulic earth drill and torque tube, makes one-man installation of utility anchors possible.

The anchor is attached to the adapter and, using less than 60 rpm, quickly penetrates most soil types for a firm, lasting anchor. Little Beaver’s steel torque tube eliminates kickback, allowing a single operator to complete the job safely and efficiently. And thanks to the Hydraulic Earth Drill’s three-wheel chassis, the drill rig can go wherever it’s needed.

 As a supplemental job, utility anchoring offers contractors an efficient use of equipment and manpower. But even for utility companies, Little Beaver’s Utility Anchoring Adapter offers a safer, more efficient alternative to anchor crankers and hand setting. In less than two minutes, an operator can install a utility anchor with a hydraulic earth drill. In less than an hour, they can have an entire pole done and be on the way to the next. Compare that to the hand method which can take over half an hour to set a single anchor. So, whether you’re looking to expand services or just provide more efficient services, Little Beaver helps you adapt.

Bringing It Home

Looking for even more added value applications for your hydraulic earth drill? We also offer a Mobile Home Anchor for securing mobile homes to a foundation.

Mobile home anchor adapter

Paired with a high-torque anchor handle, the mobile home anchor adapter makes securing mobile homes to a foundation with ground anchors easy.

Like the Utility Anchor, the adapter works with our Hydraulic Earth Drill and High-Torque Handle to quickly and efficiently drive anchors through most soils. In as little as 30 minutes, a single operator can tie down an entire mobile home.

Then when it’s time to pull up stakes and move on, just hit reverse on Little Beaver’s Hydraulic Earth Drill and anchors are removed as easily as they went in. The reverse feature also proves useful with initial anchoring when encountering obstructions or the anchor needs to be removed for any reason.

Anchoring ensures the safety and stability of mobile homes in high winds and other inclement weather. Regardless of how often you perform this application, it’s important to properly secure every anchor every time. With Little Beaver’s Hydraulic Earth Drill and Mobile Home Anchoring Kit you have a reliable partner.

Maximum Versatility for Maximum ROI

Whether it’s a side gig or your bread and butter, Little Beaver Hydraulic Earth Drills and accessory kits let you do more. From anchoring to digging holes and all the groundwork in between, Little Beaver will help take your business where you want to go.

Horizontal Applications That Are Anything But Boring

Horizontal Applications That Are Anything But Boring

Earth drill horizontal boring kits

Expand Your Mechanical Earth Drill Capabilities

Versatility – for construction companies and DIYers looking to do more with less, versatility is the key to success. Rather than a specialized machine for every job, a basic Mechanical Earth Drill with a range of simple accessories maximizes project potential from fencing to soil sampling and plenty of jobs in between. The same Mechanical Earth Drill you rely on for quick, clean vertical holes with minimum manpower can also help you tackle horizontal applications with the right attachment kit.

Horizontal boring enables operators to bypass surface obstacles like driveways, sidewalks and roads by simply going underground. For contractors and DIYers looking for an easy way to install landscape lighting, irrigation or other shallow utility lines, it is a popular option because it requires less time and labor than traditional methods of pounding rods under these obstructions. With a simple attachment you can bore up to 50 feet, eliminating barriers and opening up your possibilities.

To maximize versatility, Little Beaver offers two choices for horizontal boring kits. Selecting the right kit depends on your project.

Sidewalk Auger Kit

Horizontal boring sidewalk auger kit

The Sidewalk Auger Kit uses a 3″ diameter auger and wiggle joint extension to quickly bore under sidewalks up to 5′ long.

As the name implies, the Sidewalk Auger Kit enables boring short distances – like under sidewalks, paths or residential drainage ditches. It includes a 3-inch by 5-foot auger.

The 3-inch diameter hole is large enough for most low-voltage electrical, plumbing and water lines, making this idea for landscaping, utility and plumbing projects that only need to bore short distances. With the Sidewalk Auger Kit, contractors and homeowners can easily bore under narrow obstacles to install landscape lighting wire, water softener lines, sprinkler systems and gas lines.

Driveway Auger Kit

Horizontal boring driveway kit

The Driveway Auger Kit is used for horizontal boring under driveways or parking lots up to a distance of 50′.

If you need to cross a road – or a driveway or parking lot – on the other hand, you will need the Driveway Kit. This kit uses a water drill technique to bore up to 50 feet.

It comes with the option of a 2-, 3- or 4-inch water drill bit. As with the Sidewalk Kit, the 3-inch bit creates a large enough hole for the majority of landscaping needs. However, when boring more than 10 or 15 feet, we recommend starting with a 2-inch hole for better control. Follow that up with the 3- or 4-inch bit if you need a larger diameter hole for your project.

For operation, the Driveway Kit requires a garden hose, ¾-inch Schedule 80 water pipe for the length of your bore plus 15 feet and necessary couplings. These are not included with the kit. Unlike the Sidewalk Auger, the Driveway Kit uses water to drill and maintain the bore hole. Low water pressure flushes the dirt and lubricates the hole to avoid collapse. Rental companies often rent the required water pipe with the Mechanical Drill and Driveway Kit, so be sure to inquire at your center before purchasing.

To find out how to maximize your versatility with horizontal boring, contact a Little Beaver expert.