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How to Install Wooden Fence Posts

How to Install Wooden Fence Posts

Last updated Jun 22, 2023

Using an Earth Drill to Successfully Install Wooden Fence Posts

Installing wooden fence posts can be a great DIY project, especially if you’re renting an earth drill to make the job more efficient and less labor-intensive. Before you get started with your fencing project, there are a few things to know to set yourself up for success and prevent frustration in the future.

Plan Ahead

As tempting as it might be to start drilling as soon as possible, it’s important to call 811 and check local codes and ordinances before you drill. 811 is the national call-before-you-dig phone number that will send out a locator who will mark the approximate location of any buried utilities with paint or flags so you can avoid them. Some areas will also require permits before you build your fence, so make sure not to skip this step.

Mechanical earth auger for fencepost installation

What You’ll Need:

  • Shovel
  • Gravel
  • Level
  • Concrete mix
  • Mechanical earth drill with an auger 3 times wider than the posts
  • Stakes (enough for each wood post)
  • Wood posts (at least 8 feet in length)
  • Rope (the length you’re setting your fence posts apart)

Lay the Foundation

The type of wood you choose for your fence posts will determine their life expectancy. It’s also important to look for chromated copper arsenate (CCA) pressure-treated wood, which will slow the decay of wooden fence posts over time. Pine is a popular choice for fences that can last up to 30 years when treated. Other long-lasting woods are redwood, sweetgum or cedar because they are highly resistant to moisture which helps prevent decay, cracking or warping.

Once you have the supplies you’ll need, carefully mark the location of each post with a temporary stake. When building wooden fences, it’s crucial to have the fence posts in a straight line, otherwise you’ll notice the poles weaving in and out of line after the poles have been placed. Stretch a long rope between each stake for a simple way to measure and mark the location of each post.

After you have marked the location of each post, it’s best to use a shovel to remove any sod you might be drilling through. Grass and vegetation can clog the end of an auger — especially when wet. This step might seem like a hassle at first, but it will save you time and frustration once you start drilling.

When it comes to picking a drill to rent, we suggest prioritizing safety.  All Little Beaver earth drills incorporate torque tubes along with a slip clutch for added safety while drilling. A torque tube offers consistent safety by absorbing shock as you encounter different soil and resistance. On the other hand, the slip clutch offers protection for both the operator and the drill if you hit a rock or tree root while drilling.

Towable hydraulic earth auger

Get Drilling

When the prep work has been finished, it’s time to get drilling. Make sure the auger enters the soil perpendicular to the precise point you marked with the stake and keep it vertical as you drill. It’s important to prevent the auger from entering the ground at an angle; otherwise, you risk setting a crooked fence post or a creating hole that’s difficult to backfill.

Dig the fence post hole so the diameter is 3 times the width of the post. For example, if the fence post has a 3-inch diameter, the hole should be about 9 inches wide. The depth of the hole should be one-third to one-half the post height above ground. For example, if the fence post is 9 feet tall, the hole depth should be at least 3 feet. If you live in a cold climate, it’s also important to make sure you dig your post below the frost line to prevent the fence posts from moving or heaving when the ground freezes in the winter. To dig below the frost line, check the local frost lines in your area and dig your hole 6-inches below that.

When the hole is complete, make sure to stop the auger and pull it out for a clean hole. To make this step easier than ever, Little Beaver mechanical earth drills have a lightweight design and our hydraulic earth drills feature a reverse button. Continue the drilling process until all fence post holes are complete.

Set the Posts

When all the holes are drilled, pour in about 3 to 4 inches of gravel. This will help with drainage as opposed to a post hole that’s filled entirely with concrete. Use a piece of scrap lumber or other blunt object to tamp down the gravel. This will ensure it doesn’t settle and allows for optimal drainage. On top of the gravel, add about 6 to 8 inches of concrete, and place your post in the middle of the mixture. Using a level right after this step will help to make sure the post is properly positioned. Once the concrete is leveled, fill the rest of the hole by backfilling the dirt and tamping as you go. From here, follow the instructions on your concrete mix to see how long it will take to dry.

After this step, your fence posts are ready to go, and the rest of your fence can be assembled. If you have any questions regarding drilling holes for fence posts with a Little Beaver earth drill, don’t hesitate to contact the Little Beaver team. We’re happy to help with any questions that might come up.

Mechanical Earth Drill Troubleshooting

Mechanical Earth Drill Troubleshooting

Last updated Jun 9, 2023

How to solve problems preventing your mechanical drill from working properly

Mechanical Earth Drill Troubleshooting

For more than 50 years, Little Beaver earth drills have been the #1 choice of rental store owners, fencing contractors and other professionals who want a one-man auger that’s safe and simple to operate.

There’s nothing more frustrating than your mechanical earth drill not performing the way you want it to. For more than 50 years, Little Beaver earth drills have been the #1 choice of rental store owners, fencing contractors and other professionals who want a one-man auger that’s safe and simple to operate. We’re dedicated to your success and have an extensive list of FAQs to address operation and maintenance questions. Check out solutions to some of the most common questions we receive about operating our mechanical earth drills.

The Drill Doesn’t Start

If you’re having trouble starting your mechanical earth drill and you’ve checked the fuel levels, there are a couple things you can try to get it working properly.

We incorporate an engine kill switch on the operating handles to allow quick fingertip control of the shut off for both safety and convenience.  Often overlooked, this switch can be the culprit and an easy fix to a drill that will not start. There is also a switch incorporated in the torque tube bracket that will prevent the unit from running unless the torque tube is installed. This switch provides added safety and operator protection.

If the switch isn’t the culprit, take a moment to inspect your spark plugs. Clear indications that the spark plugs need to be changed include an engine that misfires, surges or consumes significant fuel. While you’re at it, we also recommend checking the engine oil. Although the engine has an alert that prevents operation when levels are too low, proactively checking the levels can save time and avoid hassle in the future.

Getting an Auger “Unstuck”

Occasionally, when drilling, you may encounter soils or circumstances that prove challenging for even the most powerful drills. If your auger is stuck in the ground, disconnect the handle/gearbox. Then use a pipe wrench on top of the auger to turn it in a counter clockwise direction. Be very careful not to damage the auger top.

If the pipe wrench is not successful, we do offer a specially designed tool for this situation. Part #9022-T is a Tee Handle. This handle is used in place of the pipe wrench for added leverage. You can order a Tee Handle by calling 936-327-3121.

To prevent this situation in the future, make sure not to push down on the auger when digging in soft clay or sandy soil. Let the drill do the work to efficiently cut its way through the soil.

Getting the Auger to Turn When the Engine is On

If your engine runs but the auger doesn’t turn, a problem with the drive train is the most likely situation. Frequently, the issue can be traced back to the flexible shaft core. The best way to determine if the flex shaft is the issue is to inspect the core end fittings for cracks or breakage. If the flex shaft core appears to be undamaged, check the key on the clutch drum, the gears or shaft keys within the gearbox and the adapter key on the gearbox output shaft for signs of damage.

If you find damage to the flex shaft or an issue with the gearbox, get in touch with our team to get the necessary repair parts and tips on how to prevent future damage. If both look fine but the auger still doesn’t turn, contact us or check your maintenance manual for further information on this issue.

Keeping the Auger Still When Not Engaged

If your auger turns all the time – even when not engaged – try adjusting the engine idle. If you’re unable to adjust to a low enough level to prevent turning when not engaged, replace the springs on your centrifugal clutch. To get the replacement springs and any tips on how to install them, contact us at 936-327-3121.

When an auger is working properly, the springs in the centrifugal clutch adjust when the auger is engaged so the clutch shoes push back and forth against the clutch housing to propel the auger. When not engaged, the clutch shoes stay still, so the auger stops turning. As the springs wear down, they loosen so the clutch shoes always pulse against the clutch housing.

To help reduce wear on the springs, make sure not to “bog down” the engine when using the drill. It’s important to let the auger turn fast enough that the clutch doesn’t slip because excessive slippage will cause overheating and loss of temper of the springs. 

If you’re still not finding what you’re looking for, take a deeper look into our service FAQs for mechanical earth drills or check out our owner’s manual. If the answer to your problem still isn’t coming up, don’t despair! Contact us to speak with a member of our team for a personalized solution.

The Do-It-All Earth Drill

The Do-It-All Earth Drill

Last updated Jan 15, 2024

How Little Beaver Earth Drills bring versatility and efficiency to municipalities

Municipalities have their work cut out for them. Whether it’s city maintenance workers or general contractors hired to sustain parks in a city, town or borough, a day’s work can involve several industries’ skills rolled into one crew. They can be installing fence posts in the morning, replacing sprinkler lines mid-day and find themselves planting trees in the afternoon.

With this much variety, working smarter, not harder, is paramount to overall productivity. And having versatile tools that allow crews to better utilize labor, safely, while also outperforming other methods, can have a major impact on efficiency. Little Beaver Earth Drills can do just that. Our full line of earth drills enables safe one-man operation with nearly two times the productivity of other units. It’s just a matter of finding the Little Beaver earth drill that best meets your municipality’s needs.

Here are our two most popular earth drills for municipalities and how they can streamline work for grounds crews.

Mechanical Drills + Boring

Earth drill horizontal boring kitsIf your town or city plants a lot of small greenery, installs several fences or other tasks that require crews to dig numerous footings quickly throughout the year, our Mechanical Earth Drills may be right for you. Perfect for horizontal boring or fast, narrow hole drilling, these drills, like all our drills, allow for safe, one-man operation and have the speed to help crews excel.

With our mechanical drills, users can choose from augers ranging from 1.5 to 16 inches in diameter with 36- or 42-inch lengths. And with multiple gear reduction ratio options, crews can choose a mechanical drill with 360 RPM for loose, soft soils or one with a lower speed that is better suited for dense, rockier formations. With a mechanical drill, crews can quickly install a long row of shrubs and then shift to setting a pole for a basketball hoop in denser soil — all without missing a beat.

To further increase municipal staffs’ versatility, we make Horizontal Boring Kits for our Little Beaver Mechanical Earth Drills. These are available in a sidewalk kit, for boring short distances up to five feet long, and a driveway kit, for boring up to 50 feet. The horizontal boring attachment allows grounds crews to install everything from sprinkler systems and lighting wire to drainage pipes and more, all with an easy-to-connect attachment.

Whether horizontal boring or planting a row of shrubs, these tasks, and everything in between, can be accomplished with one crew member thanks to our industry-leading design. A centrifugal clutch and torque tube eliminate dangerous operator kickback and prevent jarring stops when encountering an obstacle. Additionally, the innovative torque tube redirects torque to the engine carriage instead of the drill’s handles. These features make for a winning combination that spares drill components and protects the operator’s safety, allowing crews to better utilize their labor.

But, if heavy-duty applications and anchoring are abundant and soil types are consistently rocky and dense, hydraulic drills might be a better choice.

Hydraulic Drills + Anchoring

Hydraulic earth drill installing - anchors for mobile homesOur Hydraulic Earth Drills, with their powerful torque, are perfect for installing anchors or digging holes for large playground equipment, awning supports, sizable landscaping and other tasks that require deep, wide footings.

These earth drills accommodate augers up to 16 inches in diameter with drilling depths of up to 35 feet depending on the auger. The seemingly endless auger options combined with rugged drill construction and increased torque allow crews to take on lighter tasks like planting landscaping and then quickly shift to heavy-duty construction, like installing support beams for a sunshade. This gives crews the flexibility to divide and conquer whatever their municipality throws at them.

And with the hydraulic drill line, crews don’t have to look elsewhere for anchoring needs.  Thanks to our innovative torque tube and precise auger rotation at low speeds, our hydraulic drills are perfect for anchoring. Our Anchor Adapters are available for various applications from anchoring poles and beams to installing tent stakes, making them a perfect, versatile solution for municipalities. By quickly snapping an adapter onto our earth drill’s high torque anchor handle, crews have a one-man anchoring machine to secure footbridges, large playground equipment and more — a much safer and more efficient option than anchor crankers.

The extensive tasks that await city maintenance crews and contractors every morning don’t also have to mean an extensive set of tools. With a little knowledge about the applications, crews can choose one Little Beaver Earth Drill to carry them through the day — safely and efficiently.

Repair or Replace?

Repair or Replace?

Last updated Sep 19, 2025

Factors to Consider When Addressing Wear Issues

Nothing ruins productivity like a broken piece of equipment. While that statement may seem fairly obvious, the actions to address problems are not always clear cut. Depending on the severity of the issue, you may be able to get away with a quick fix or repair to extend the life of the machine. But for larger issues, a full replacement might make more sense.

This logic holds true with earth drills just as much as any other piece of equipment in your fleet. There are many working parts to a drill, and while issues aren’t a common occurrence, they certainly can happen. Unfortunately, there is not a guide or rule book to tell you exactly when to repair and when to replace your earth drill. But with a bit of guidance and the help of an expert manufacturer, your decision may be a little easier.

Here are some factors to consider when repairing or replacing your earth drill:

What seems to be the issue?

The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation

The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation

Some of the most common earth drill issues include an auger that quits turning or turns when it’s not supposed to. If your auger spins while it’s out of the ground but quits spinning as soon as you start to drill the hole, it’s likely a broken flex shaft. The flex shaft should be cleaned and greased after every 50 hours of operation, but sometimes even routine maintenance can’t prevent breakage. A broken flex shaft can’t be repaired, and usually costs about $600 for the part and up to $100 for installation. In some cases, just replacing the inner core will fix the problem for around $200.

Gearbox issues are a different story. An issue with the gears or the gearbox prevents the drill from spinning altogether.  While low motor oil can cause the motor to lock up and cease functioning, there’s also the possibility of a larger issue, such as the gears being stripped. Gearboxes can be repaired, but can cost nearly as much as a full replacement – a comparison of about $725 to repair or $850 plus installation costs to replace.

f the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch.

If the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch.

If the auger spins at idle, the diagnosis is likely the clutch. The auger shouldn’t spin until you depress the throttle and engage the clutch. If the clutch is overheated during operation, the heat-treated springs will no longer keep the shoes from engaging, causing the auger to stay engaged at all times. Similar to the gearbox, the repair cost nears the full replacement cost – a comparison of about $140 and $160 plus installation costs for a new clutch.

If the auger vibrates excessively or “walks” during use, it is likely due to misalignment or wear of the points and blades. Blades should be replaced when worn flush of the auger flighting. If the blades wear into the auger flighting, the auger will need to be repaired or replaced. Points should be replaced when the split or fork in the tip is less than ¼” from the bottom of the split.

What would a replacement part cost?

The cost of parts varies among manufacturers. A general statement of advice is that if the replacement parts cost more than 50% of a new drill, it might be best to invest in a new unit. Keep in mind though, don’t just look at the sticker price. You should also include the labor and cost of lost production, as well as the age of the equipment.

Common replacement parts like the flex shaft and the gearbox can add up to a significant dollar amount. In fact, if both need to be repaired at the same time, it can cost almost 50% of a new drill. While it’s not common for these two parts to break at the same time, it can happen if an operator hits an obstacle while digging at a fast speed.

If two or more parts need to be replaced at the same time, you may be better off replacing the entire drill. However, making the repairs and rebuilds yourself can be a more financially feasible option for those with the experience and tools to do so.

Can you fix it yourself?

Hiring someone to fix your equipment is often a logical choice, as it alleviates the effort required on your part. However, when you take this route, it’s important to factor in repair costs and time that is outside of your control.

The alternative – fixing it yourself – doesn’t have to seem like a daunting undertaking. Many manufacturers have resources to walk you through the process. Little Beaver offers service videos that address common repairs and maintenance questions. It might seem tempting to pay someone to fix your drill, but educating yourself on the components and repair process can save you time and money in the long run. If someone on your staff is mechanically inclined, they should be able to tackle the repairs.

In what application do you use the drill?

Little Beaver Mechanical earth augerIf you’ve got backup drills in your fleet, waiting for a repair might not be an issue. But for contractors who rely on the unit on a daily or even weekly basis, being without it could result in lost revenue. In the summer, especially, many local lawn and garden repair shops are backed up for 6-12 weeks, which is not a feasible wait time for many people. Depending on how long you’ve owned the machine and what industry you’re in, the decision to repair or replace might make more sense.

Rental

In the rental industry, only drills that operate bring in revenue. So if repairing a drill would take time, replacing it might be a better option. If time is the greatest concern, consider purchasing a second unit as a back-up and additional revenue source until the original drill is fixed.

In the rental industry, appearance of equipment is a large deciding factor for customers. Replacing a worn-out drill with a shiny new one might make more sense for the fleet. If turning inventory is on an annual or 18-month requirement, the chances are low that something would go wrong and require a full replacement before that time. In other instances, a rental center might repair a drill for 20 years. The criteria is different for each business, so make sure the cost and the results make sense for your store.

Fencing

In the fencing industry, it’s important to have a large enough fleet to change out drills if one needs repairs. Fencing contractors likely have more than one drill in their lineup, so taking one out of commission to get it repaired shouldn’t affect productivity. For many contractors, incremental costs broken up monthly are a more feasible option than a single, larger payment. But, it’s important to consider the cost of each of those repairs. Consider the overall age of the drill and how many key components could be showing that age.

What is the age and condition of the drill?

If a drill is maintained well and taken care of, it should last many years. There’s no rule that says “after 10 years or 10,000 hours of use, the motor will go out,” so it’s important to keep an eye on the machine. If a drill is rented out and used for 20 hours a week, it would likely require less maintenance than a fencing contractor who uses the drill 40 hours a week.

When considering repairing or replacing your drill, you’ll want to consider the overall health of the engine. If the engine is older and experiencing issues, replacement might be more logical however, if the engine is a rebuilt system and virtually like new, repair makes more sense.

Making a decision

If you suspect something is wrong with your drill, address it right away. If issues aren’t fixed in a timely manner, they can have a domino effect and create more damage.  Taking care of one component right away can save time and hassle and prevent other issues.

Also, it’s important to remember that if you decide to purchase a brand-new drill, keep your old one on hand for replacement parts. Over time, it might be a good idea to fix up the old drill to use as a backup, too.

It’s hard to provide a cut-and-dry guide to repairing or replacing your equipment. The manufacturer can likely provide advice on your particular situation, so give them a call if you need help with the decision. Addressing problems and repairing or replacing your earth drill will help bring your operation back to maximum productivity.

The Dangers of Digging and How to Avoid Them

The Dangers of Digging and How to Avoid Them

Last updated Jun 12, 2025

Keeping Safety in Mind Before Starting the Job

Whether you’re using a hand shovel or an excavator, an earth drill or a trencher, a hole is a hole and there are several safety precautions that come along with a digging project. Sharp tools present the opportunity for dangerous situations, let alone combined with the power of a mechanical or hydraulic rig. Choosing a safe machine, calling before you dig and operating the machine according to manufacturer recommendations are all things to consider before starting. Keeping safety in mind before starting any job is crucial to avoiding injuries, some of which can be serious.

Select a Safe Drill

High speed earth drillChoosing a drill with safety-enhancing features can make or break a project. No matter what kind of drill you’re looking for – mechanical or hydraulic, a larger rig or smaller piece of equipment – there are certain features to look for to ensure the safest operation.

First, make sure the drill has a torque bar. This addition protects operators from the harmful effects of a drill’s torque by transferring kickback from the auger to the power source. By distributing force to the engine carriage as opposed to the handles, one person can safely and comfortably operate these drills. In addition to protecting the operator from harm, torque tubes reduce operator effort and fatigue.

Torque tubes are the only way to ensure safe operation of a one-man drill. The torque tube eliminates the kickback common with competitive earth augers, making one-man drilling safe, fast and productive. Many two-man drills exist, but if they’re not operated correctly, they present a handful of potential issues. If one operator slips or lets go, the other operator risks being thrown and injured. A one-man earth drill is designed to be a safe and efficient piece of equipment.

Additionally, mechanical drills are often equipped with a centrifugal clutch. If the auger encounters an object beneath the surface or if it’s overloaded, the clutch automatically slips to protect the operator from serious injury.

Call Before You Start

Call 811 Before You DigCalling before you dig can be the difference between smooth sailing and a potential disaster. There are millions of miles of buried utilities below the surface, including gas lines, underground sprinklers, sewer pipes and more. Buried gas or power lines are the most dangerous, with the potential for electrocution, fire, severe burns or even fatalities. Always call the national diggers hotline at 811 at least 48 hours prior to digging to have underground utilities marked. When the inspector arrives, pay attention to the details since state laws differ when it comes to how long your permits are valid and what the paint or flags indicate. There may be multiple utility lines to be aware of.

Besides underground utilities, you should have a general idea of what lies below. Fill material, wood, rocks and more can be hiding underground. Take a good survey of your site beforehand. Not only does this provide another level of safety, but it helps you make a decision on which kind of drill bit to select.

Operate Safely

After you’ve equipped yourself with the safest drill and underground utilities have been marked, it’s time to start your project. If you’ve chosen a one-man drill, it’s important to operate the drill alone, as the handles are designed for a solo operation. Bystanders should be at least 10 feet away, and everyone should be wearing hard hats and safety goggles.

Avoid loose-fitting clothing, including gloves. If work gloves are too loose, they can hinder your ability to appropriately operate the drill. Wear work boots or quality athletic shoes, avoiding hanging shoelaces that could get caught in the auger.

Once the auger is running, position it perpendicular to the ground for the best possible control and optimal results. Touch the auger to the ground before you start rotating. For the best control, adjust the downward pressure based on the soil conditions. If the soil is soft, ease up slightly. If the ground is harder, apply a little more pressure, but not so much that rotation slows or stops.

Once you’ve reached the desired depth, there’s a proper procedure for safely removing the auger from the ground. Release the throttle control and allow the auger to come to a complete stop. Once the auger has stopped turning, it can safely be removed from the hole. Hydraulic rigs feature a forward/reverse lever to make it easier to lift the dirt out. This allows the operator to ease the drill out of the ground as opposed to tugging heavily on the equipment, greatly minimizing the physical effort required to get the job done.

By following a few easy steps, you can ensure your drilling operation is safe, efficient and injury-free.

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Mechanical Drill Maintenance: End-of-Year Care

Mechanical Drill Maintenance: End-of-Year Care

Last updated Jun 15, 2023

Mechanical Drill Maintenance

Preparing Your Drill for Off-Season Storage

As the end of the busy season wraps up, it’s time to take a closer look at your mechanical earth drill. When it comes to a smooth drilling operation, it’s a matter of a well-operating machine. Yes, choosing a top-performing, reputable drill manufacturer plays a huge role in the success of your drill, but performing routine and end-of-season maintenance is important to prolong the life of your equipment, and ensuring it performs when you really need it.

Routine drill maintenance includes examining, cleaning and lubricating key drill components roughly every 30 days or 40 hours of operation. But what happens at the end of busy season, when your drill makes its way to storage for a few months? Whether owner or a rental center, there are a few steps you can take to ensure a simple transition from storage to usage in the spring.

Inspect the drill

After every use of your earth drill, take a look at all of the components to ensure everything is in working order. End-of-season maintenance includes taking that inspection one step further. Make sure the blades are past the flighting. When the blades start to wear flush with the auger, it’s time to flip the blades or replace them. If the blades wear to the auger flighting and wear the actual flighting, operators will either need to repair the auger flighting or replace the entire auger.

Take a few more steps to complete the detailed inspection. Ensure all bolts are tight, and make sure all carbide blades (used for hard clay, frozen ground, or hard pan soils) are sharp. If the carbide blades feel worn and rounded, sharpen them with a bench grinder. Using a silicone carbide bench grinding wheel, hold the blade at a 5- to 7-degree relief angle to sharpen it.

The push button connector should be in good shape, with no visible rust. Check the throttle lever for damage or wear. Inspect the throttle cable, too. When you pull the lever, the cable should move freely on the other end. If it sticks, replace it. Some users might be able to remove the cable, clean it and reattach, but if the cable is frayed at all it will be difficult to get back in. Replacing is often the best option.

Inspecting your drill’s flex shaft should be done two or three times a year, but is especially important during end of year maintenance. There shouldn’t be any cracks or wires on the outer housing. If it’s in good shape, simply remove the core, clean it, re-lube it and slide it back in. If the flex shaft shows signs of cracks or wires, it should be replaced.

If any parts are in need of replacement, contact Little Beaver. Addressing replacement parts prior to storage is a better alternative to waiting until spring. Store your drill with peace of mind knowing it’ll be ready to operate in the spring, rather than dealing with potential delays waiting for parts.

Replace fluids and filters

Transmission fluid should be replaced regularly. If your fluid has a lot of metal shavings in it, that can be an indication of excessive gear wear or missing teeth. If the fluid is changed regularly, you won’t experience gear wear. If you hold the output shaft and wiggle it, you shouldn’t feel a lot of movement.

Motor oil and filters should be cleaned and changed. Clean filters with an air hose, or if they’re foam filters they can be shaken out.

Clean and prep for storage

Considering the job, it’s natural that earth drills get dirty. Dirt and clay adhere to the blades of the auger, which can diminish the efficiency and performance of the equipment. Not only should your machine be wiped down after every use, it should also undergo a deep cleaning during end of year maintenance.

Remove all debris from the earth blades using warm, soapy water. Avoid using a power washer, as the pressure can damage the equipment.

To prep for storage, disassemble the drill and remove the torque tube and auger. Drain the fuel or add fuel neutralizer before storage.

Always store the drills upright in a dry place because the steel components will eventually rust if left outside or in places with a lot of moisture, such as propped up outside against a building.

Keep in mind the importance of end-of-year maintenance and the role it plays in overall lifespan of the drill. Cleaning and storing the machine properly contributes to the continued success of your drilling operation.

If you have a maintenance issue or question, make sure to reference Little Beaver’s online parts and operators’ manual, online service videos or contact us for in-house technical consultation.